Dropped off our bags at Left Luggage at the Santa Lucia Train Station and burst out into the scene.
First stop was some grub, recommendation of Gian our sound guy last night. Definite locals vibe but not off the beaten path per se; small little bites and miniature glasses of wine for cheap. So tasty. Now that's what I call breakfast.
Salami and cheese, cheese and sun dried tomato. Both slamming...
The joint was teeny tiny. I mean a closet. There were as many people working as could fit in the little area to order but in fine Italian tradition, there is a group of locals standing at the bar chatting and drinking. That's just what you do here. Especially in cafes. And the smaller the cafe the better. It's a beautiful tradition not made for speedy to go orders. Luckily, things like espresso and little sandwiches disappear quickly.
It started coming down pretty good but all was okay after a 5€ umbrella purchase from a gentlemen of Indian descent. Come to think of it, none of the souvenir shops seemed to be run by Italians. I wonder if they were bought out or just retired? But I digress...
I have yet to own a rain coat since moving to Phoenix. Note to self, buy a raincoat when I return to Phoenix.
We went on a full blown wander, following the crowd of tourists and umbrellas (one dude was wearing a trash bag) meandering through tiny little alleys and over small bridges perched over green water that I wouldn't swim in. Can't imagine Venice in the summer. It's probably brutal with the humidity and the crowds... Glad it is April and glad it was raining.
We got to a point in our soggy journey where we had to turn back to make the 3:59pm train to Wien, that's Vienna for all you land lovers. We made a pit stop at a little cafe and picked up some provisions for the 7 hr train ride ahead of us; big bottle of sparkling water, red wine in a 1liter tetra box, a couple cold Italian beers the make of which I've never heard of, sandwiches (ciabatta with prosciutto and cheese heated up like a panini and cold sandwiches cut into small triangles on soft, crust-less white bread with tuna and tomato... so killin'), and a couple bars of chocolate. Only the essentials, people...
Made it back to the train station pretty well loaded down now w snacks, grabbed our baggage from the Left Luggage and found our seats on the train that was waiting for us at platform 9. Feet were tired and damp so I was definitely ready to kick back, enjoy the views and the plunder and not drive.
4:59pm. Jeff has already left our little sitting area for more space in an adjacent quarter. We fear he may leave us forever. I fade in and out sleep in a position not meant for sleeping. Peter is air drumming to his iPod.
5:59pm. Train is approaching some mountains. Sent Peter on a mission to find the food cabin. Provisions are already dangerously low. Some of us (Peter) didn't plan accordingly. He's eyeing my beers and sandwich in a way that makes me uneasy. Will protect at all costs. I'm tall and have a longer reach than he does. Jeff is asleep.
6:59pm Food cabin has been located and prices are sufficiently gougey... At least it was expected. All sandwiches have been consumed and peter is already trying to get in on my box of wine. He's dangling a 'surprise for later' in exchange for some fine boxed vino. I think he is bluffing, but I feel for the little guy. He looks hungry and he's been crying a lot... He thinks I should share. I explain to him that I have two older brothers and we didn't share and look at us, we turned out OKAY. Sharing was a sign of weakness, especially when it came to food. We fear Jeff has emigrated.
In other news the landscape is stunning. Very dramatic mountain scenes with small villages. Something out of a sci-fi or fantasy novel. Dark, dark green mountains covered in coniferous trees with clouds clinging to the side. Wide river beds with smooth round white stones and a small stream of light green water in the middle. Lots of tunnels. At this point u only catch glimpses. You can tell you are nearing the end of the tunnel because the pressure changes in your ears, so u look out the window in anticipation.
7:59pm Food levels almost completely depleted. Liquid rations are low. On any tour, you start to accumulate booze in the rental car; bottles of beer and wine, schnapps, water. Most of the time it's a gift from a venue or from raiding the green room. It's affectionately referred to as the "car bar" best said with a Boston accent. This tour we had only two bottles of beer when we cleaned out the car. Peter just cracked one. These are bleak, bleak times...
Lakes!
Peter is lying about not having food. He has gummy bears, I saw them in his bag. "Those are totally gifts, man..." Not cool man. I wonder if Jeff moved his seat early on to preserve his rations.... He knows Peter well. Man that guy is smart. I'm gonna miss him... I wonder if we will ever see him again.
Heavy cloud cover blocks out the sun but you can tell it's still up there somewhere barely. Train announcements in German now. Already feel better, more at ease. Like if I make a run for it at the next stop, I'll get to Vienna no problem....
I wonder about these towns and their churches in the middle. I wonder how religion affects these people or how or if it drives their daily life in any way. I wonder if we will ever get to a time when we only visit churches as part of a history lesson; to remember that people used to actually physically congregate and socialize and be thankful for some intangible force guiding their lives. And whether it's evolution or devolution that describes a godless culture. In any case, these were once God fearing communities. You see it everywhere.
8:59pm All is quiet. Peter appears to be asleep. Jeff hasn't spoken in hours. The windows have gone dark. I wish they'd turn the lights off in the train so we can see outside although there wouldn't be much to see. Every once in a while a castle on the surrounding hill will be illumated. Otherwise basically pitch black, just our own reflections in the windows.
I've successfully rationed my chocolate and wine and now that Peter is alseep, I think it's safe. Thinking this will help me survive a couple more hours. Going to try to avoid the train food, but I'm only human. 2.5 hrs to go. All work and no play makes Brian a dull boy.
Stepping off the train at the various stops on the route. For the :45 seconds that the train pauses (we are after all in Austria), the air is crisp and clean. Mountain air. Whistle. Back on the train.
9:59pm 20 min delay in Leoben, Austria. No one is quite sure why. But made some Austrian friends who called our hotel in Vienna and asked if we would still be able to get into our rooms so late. We are good. Gave our older Austrian friends an L&S. It's gonna blow their freakin minds.... we are going to be HUGE in the town next to Loeben!
Peter broke down and went to the food cart and bought, wait for it, chicken tiki masala in a box and a Hefeweizen; I mean some real Italian/Austrian shit... he comes back to his seat with a shit eating grin and then asks for some of my private red wine stash saying "it helps with digestion and the flavor profile is better than my beer." Me: " why didn't you just buy some red wine?!" Peter "Oh, it was too expensive." See what I mean?! No man, it's cool. Have some of the secret stash... Go back to bed...
Haven't seen Jeff in a week.
There are two women from Slovakia next to us on the train. They are teaching us some Slovakian, all of which I've forgotten. The saying that peter knows (something about not being behind a horse's fart) they didn't understand. Shocker. I'm starting to question his language prowess. I'm gonna go sit next to Jeff....
10:59pm I couldn't help it. Hunger levels were high and blood sugars were low. Food and liquid rations were all but depleted, empty, closed. I went to the food car for a ham & cheese panini... And it was good. That is all. I'm slightly ashamed.
Peter's 'surprise for later' was a nip of Johnny Walker Black Label courtesy of Air Canada from his trip over... He'd been saving it for a special occasion. Spirits were briefly raised.
What have I learned from train travel with Peter Day and Jeff Vallone? Well, it's not much different than car travel... 1) if you sit near Peter, be ready to share everything 2) if you sit near Jeff, expect to maintain your food and drink stash. Well, it helps that Jeff is vegetarian. He said my panini looked delicious, in a very non-threatening way. Peter said little. Just eyed my sandwich.
Our train car is almost silent now save the tapping of someone's fingers on a laptop.
Lights rush by the windows. Names of town flash by. Peter eyes my beer. I avoid eye contact...
11:59pm Rolled into Vienna Meidling Train station in Vienna. Our prayers were answered and there was a Döner joint still open. He was just packing up shop. Grabbed Döner to go and found the taxi stand. Our taxi driver was full on asleep in his seat when we walked up. Despite that, he got us to the Ramada in one piece. Devoured said Döner in the lobby.
What a day; we laughed, we cried, we bartered for wine...
Night from Vienna.
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