5/30/12 day 35: St. Petersburg

Cold, windy, and rainy today. Not exactly site seeing weather, but I busted out all the layers and made my way through customs (apparently they get bonuses for not smiling and sneering "Amerikanski" under their breath) to the coach bus headed for Peter and Paul Fortress and Menshikov palace. Big group today, 25 guests total.

Peter and Paul fortress is where St. Petersburg started. The fortress was constructed around the first small wooden church in town and then around the wooden church, a bigger church was built. And now it houses all the caskets of the Czars, even the great patriarch of St. Petersburg, Peter the Great. End scene.

An hour later we were at Peter's homeboy's crib, Menshikov. This cat had a sprawling crib right on the rivers edge and Peter would hang there often and play chess with the all silver chess set. When Peter died, Menshikov ran the show with Peters widow for about two years until Peters nephew was old enough to take power and banished him to Siberia! Thanks for your service Menshikov, now kindly see yourself to Siberia. Menshy (as I call him) died out there in the cold and lost all his lands, palaces, and wealth. Bummer dude. It was cool while it lasted. While peter was alive, he did do some traveling though and stashed a lot of stuff in the many rooms of his place: rooms full of Dutch tile, Chinese silk, etc. He was big pimpin' for sure, now, not so much.

I am officially palaced out.

5/29/12 day 34: St. Petersburg, Russia

55 degrees today in St. Petersburg, Russia. Partly cloudy with occasional sun sightings. This is the first country where i needed my passport to get off the ship. Cued in a customs building and then herded 14 guests to a shuttle bus. I escorted a guest tour of two royal palaces today. First impressions of the city from the bus were positive for the most part. On the surface, it looked like many other major European cities; bland imperial era architecture, lots of car traffic, etc. Written Russian looks confusing. There seems to be a big disconnect between what's written and what's said, you know? Unlike our Estonian tour guide, our Russian tour guide didn't have such a disdain for the old communist era. She spoke in mostly neutral tones and almost avoided the issue all together. On several occasions when referring to the time line of a construction or renovation project, she would forecast that "eventually it will be done" or "hopefully it will be done for my grandchildren" and then remark that "nothing happens immediately." I wondered if this unpredictable time table, and the resulting "aw shucks" attitude towards deadlines, was a result of living in communist Russia. She also mentioned that a lot of the street names, squares, and buildings are going back to their "original" names. Didn't see any "Stalin Boulevards" on this tour, thank you very much. But this process of renaming, as with other processes, "takes time."

We visited two palaces: Vladimir and Yusopov Palace. Behind their modest facades lay these very opulent palaces stocked w treasures from foreign lands: statues, chandeliers, paintings. The Yusopov Palace is best known for the place where Rasputin was murdered: the cyanide cookies didn't take so they shot him... Not how I want to go.

As interesting as it was, it all got a little repetitive. At some point you start blankly shuffling around like a zombie taking pictures of things because the tour guide pointed at it or because it was shiny.

Overall though the tours were good. I'm already a little bit palaced out, and I escort another palace tour tomorrow.

After my set tonight I went out to the crew deck of the ship and noticed that at 10:45 pm the sun was still up. Snapped the photo I posted below.

5/28/12 day 33: Tallinn, Estonia

Awoke from a series of strange dreams this morning. One was in three languages... Must be this international cast of characters on this ship influencing my subconscious.

Had a quick lunch before putting on the yellow polo (required escort threads) and made it down to the coach bus for the walking tour. I herded 13 guests as we wound our way through the amazingly well preserved medieval town of Tallinn. 17th century cobblestone, churches of all faiths, gift shops of amber stone, linens, Scandinavian sweaters. Tallinn was ruled by basically ever major power through the ages. Romans, Danes, Germans, Russians... Yet all powers helped preserve the integrity of this unesco site. It was pretty amazing considering all the wars and turmoil and terrible architecture (thanks for the memories Soviet Union!) that has occurred on this soil. Speaking of the USSR, one of the tours for guests this afternoon was a "Back to the USSR" tour. Instead of a comfy coach bus, this tour bus was probably 50 years old and no shit, stalled in front of the other buses. A guy in soviet uniform stormed out and ordered the male guest to get out and push it along so they could jump start it! It was all tongue and cheek and part of the tour, but we all had a good laugh. It's good that Estonians have a sense of humor about the whole thing I guess. It's like "Hey, you oppressed us for 50 years but it's cool! PS. We still hate you."

We walked around the old part of town and then down into the lower part of the old city. Had coffee in a 15th century building (with free wifi of course) and listened to 15/16th tunes courtesy of a three piece band playing authentic instruments. It was a scene out of Bill and Teds Excellent Adventure or the Holy Grail.

Back to the boat for some exercise, dinner and then music starts at 6.

5/27/12 day 32: Stockholm, Sweden

We must be getting lucky with the weather. 68 degrees today and not a cloud in the sky. Perfect weather for a walkabout.

The plan was to meet in the crew mess after an early lunch. We hit the dock at about 12. Luckily we were docked basically downtown so all we had to do was get off the ship and pick a direction. Stockholm is made up of 14 interconnected islands. Each island has its thing. We walked up towards Gamla Stan where the Kings Palace is and followed the water all the way around Skeppsholmen and over to Djirgarden, which many years ago was basically the kings private hunting island. It took us about 2+ hours to get to the Vasa Museum (which we regrettably didn't have time to see) and then after a short break in a park right next to the Nordiska Museet, we doubled back and headed towards the first island Gamla Stan. As I said, the weather was spectacular. Lots of tourists and locals walking the docks, standing in line for a water tour, eating ice cream, looking Swedish... The dudes had angular haircuts, the ladies blond and thin.

We passed old wooden boats to the sounds of sea gulls. The streets were oddly quiet though. I don't know how it was possible... They were very busy w foot traffic and cars, but somehow there was little noise. We passes one outdoor cafe and I was stopped cold in my tracks because over their patio stereo was my friend Mat Weddle singing "Hey Ya" to me and the crowds walking by. Before I could say anything, my buddy Chris said he has the song on his iPod... I told him I was basically the reason Mat recorded that song in the first place. And then I confessed... I am probably the ONLY reason he recorded it. Just kidding Mat. Ps. Mat, let's tour Sweden next year!

We decided to take a side street through Gamla Stan and walked up past the palace and down some of the smaller, winding alleys with shops and cafes. We passed a very quaint, very Swedish looking plaza with a water fountain in the middle. I snapped a photo and then saw it on every postcard stand we walked by. My photo is shit, won't even post it, just know that it's very pretty.

We made it back to the ship by about 3:35. Which gave me enough time to take a quick nap, have dinner, shower and get ready for the gig at 630. I dig the routine, people. I even worked out in between sets... I don't even know myself anymore!

The gigs went well. I dug into some Ray LaMontagne tonight for some guests which was nice. Havent played that stuff in a Swedish coon's age. I was playing as we were leaving The city. The club were I play my sets is aft on the ship (the back of the boat for you land lovers). I was amazed how much maneuvering we had to do to leave. Checked out a map and realized its like a maze of islands to leave Stockholm. It was extremely picturesque though, little Nordic cottages along the water. Kind of reminded me how we had to navigate the Kiel Canal too. There were tight squeezes!

All in all, I dig Stockholm. It's pretty, lots of water, green patches, clean... I'm back before the end of my "tour," in ship terms you call it your "contract," so my plan for the next visit is to see where the real Swedes hang out (i hear there is a "bohemian" part of town and I am intrigued) and I'm going to the Vasa Museum and the Nordiska Museum. Google "Vasa Museum Stockholm."

Tomorrow is going to be another great day. We are in Tallinn, Estonia which is apparently off the chain. I'm also escorting a three hour walking tour of the old city in the afternoon. More to come.

5/26/12 day 31: At Sea (Baltic)

Had an 8 am training this morning. Well, it's ONE way to start the day, I suppose. Maybe not my first choice but still... Went back to my room and flicked on the old "bridge cam" to see what the weather was like outside: rain. And that basically meant that I could take a guilt free nap which i promptly did. I actually really dig self imposed room time. I can chill, read, watch TV, watch a movie, nap, play guitar... All good things. I had some tea and read my Fodors book on Sweden and am getting amped up to visit Stockholm tomorrow. I'm waiting to hear if I will be escorting a tour tomorrow or not. Otherwise I will have the morning/afternoon to wander around and check out the sites. I hear the Vasa Museum is a must see. Alright, off to the gym, then dinner, then playing some music. Life doesn't have to be more complicated than that, you know what I mean?

5/25/12 day 30: Kiel Canal, Germany

We are spending the day cruising across Germany through the Kiel Canal. Another beautiful day outside. I went out to the crew deck to take it in. It was very surreal at first, gliding through the countryside past yellow fields, small villages, and couples riding along the canal on their bikes. We'd wave at cyclists and folks sitting in their back patios. Can you imagine a luxury cruise liner sailing by literally off your back porch. At points the canal wasn't much wider than the ship and it looked like we'd scrape the bottoms of the bridges as we silently passed under them. Sat out on deck and enjoyed the sun and the sights for a couple hours.

I already like this new group of guests! They are really appreciative and respectful and they LOVE John Denver and the Beatles, so I think we are gonna be just fine. My song list is growing and I am really digging playing the new material. Some of those dogs I've been playing for 8 years. "Green Eyes" by Coldplay was the first cover tune I learned when I moved to Phoenix. I played that track tonight but also the new ones. Really digging Norwegian Wood and Mrs. Robinson.

5/24/12 day 29: Hamburg, Germany

It was a picture perfect afternoon in Hamburg, Germany. The land of the beige Mercedes taxi. Got off the ship after lunch and went for a solo stroll. For all the times i've been in and out of Hamburg, I never spent any time by the harbor. It's beautiful. The city has obviously dumped some funds into a harbor revitalization. It's actually still happening. There are cranes all over this place but they are not invasive. I love architecture in Germany because they appreciate modern approaches in design and aesthetic but almost always is there a nod to history and always to function. I was really impressed with the harbor. Really clean, visually interesting while incorporating the history of this area and these buildings. Beautiful canals past old brick factory buildings, cafes on every corner, brand new modern hotels, bike paths... It was exactly what you'd think a German port city would look like: clean and functional. I wandered north to the Rathaus and headed back in the direction of the boat. I came across this old toll house perched on the side of a canal which of course now is a little cafe and had a coffee in the sun. Everybody in the city was outside on their lunch break. I bet after a long winter, days like today are celebrated and every minute of sun is absorbed. Now I am bummed we don't have more time here. Its also great overhearing German. It makes my brain work. I start to think in German. I was literally walking around with a smile on my face realizing that I can understand what people were talking about. People I am sure thought I was crazy. Germany has a special place in my heart and soul for sure. And Hamburg just got bumped up the list of favorite German cities. It's got the whole harbor thing, which Berlin doesn't have. It's a nice touch.

Crew is busy loading on the luggage of the new passengers and I see some new faces in the crew area. I remember my first day on this ship. I was pretty overwhelmed. I am starting to settle in. I am still amazed at my good fortune, I mean, here I am playin music on a luxury cruise liner and visiting some of my favorite cities (and seeing new amazing places). I love existing in in a "behind the scenes" environment. For example, in Phoenix, my work hours are pretty non-traditional. I rarely have to drive in rush hour traffic. I rarely wait in lines at, say, the super market because I can get all that stuff done when everyone else is at work. It feels like I exist in this alternate reality. I love that feeling. And here on the ship, I feel it too. I feel it in relation to the guests but also to the other crew. I have this awesome reverse schedule. It's oddly satisfying.

Off to enjoy the rest of this amazing day on the crew deck overlooking downtown Hamburg and revel in my good fortune. Cheers.

5/23/12 day 28: Groningen, Holland

Had IPM today (that's what the cool kids call "in port manning") so I had to stay put on the ship and do a couple light chores. Had to walk around the ship and check a couple of the guest areas. Usually takes 15 minutes, tops. It was a beautiful day tho, so spent some time out on the crew deck on deck 11. The port looked new, but pretty industrial. We were outside of Groningen in a town called Delfzijl. Had a super productive day, learned four new songs (Norwegian Wood, Mrs Robinson, Bad Leroy Brown, and Leaving on a Jet Plane) and hit the guest gym for the first time. The guest gym is WAY nicer than the crew gym. I'm gonna enjoy exercising that little privilege... pun intended. Then hit dinner and started my sets.

5/22/12 day 27: At Sea

"I'm all at sea..." Jamie Cullum

This song plays on repeat in my head on our sea days.

Last night I met some friends in the crew bar after my sets. This is the default meeting place in the evening. There were maybe 10 people in there. One girl was playing her iPod through the stereo. I asked if I could play some music when she was done. The sound engineer for the ship hadn't heard the latest Bombay Bicycle Club, so I threw it on. Every other night they are bumping techno in this joint. BBC's new album is very acoustic and mellow, a HUGE deviation from what is normally played. About five songs in, I started to get weird looks from the others in the bar. Finally the bartender came over and asked for something more upbeat... He took out his laptop and dropped some dance pop. Oh well, I tried. I'm gonna see if we can have a jazz night in the crew bar and really blow some minds.

Holland tomorrow but unfortunately I have in port manning and have to stay on the ship. The day after that we are in Hamburg where we get a new load of guests. Already been here almost a month. Time is flying by!

5/21/12 day 26: Newcastle, UK

Overcast and cold today. Added an extra layer of clothes. Did an afternoon walk around Newcastle. Not a ton of cultural or historic stuff to see. Downtown is one big shopping area. Picked up a new dress shirt and a couple new ties. This is the first time I've worn a suit to work in 6 years, and I need some new threads. Also found a music shop with some proper acoustic guitars. Luckily, I stocked up on strings before I left, they were pretty pricey at this store.

Last night was crew Curry Night , which they have on occasion. Basically the chef whips up some curry for the crew and we take over one of the guest restaurants from 11 to 1. They wheel out a couple ice chests of beer and let the crew hang out in an otherwise off limits area. They also share some of the amazing desserts that they make for the guests. I tell ya, those desserts are dangerous.

5/20/12 day 25: Edinburgh, Scotland

54 degrees today. Beautiful blue skies and sunny. We took the shuttle to Edinburgh (pronounced "Edin-Brah") and started walking. Jason lived here for four years so he was our designated tour guide. We strolled over to Royal Mile and followed the sounds of the bag pipes and scots dressed as Braveheart to Edinburgh Castle. Along the way were scarf shops an kilt shops, single malt shops, and artisans with carts full of jewelry. We aproached the castle but decided not to pay the 20 quid to walk inside. We then walked to Grass market and passed loads of bars with small patios and people enjoying a pint in the sunshine. We decided to blend in with the locals and try a local brew. I tried Innis and Gunns which was good, but not my first choice. It was infused w honey which made it sweeter than I care for. Still nice on a hot day. We did some more walking around and caught the 430 shuttle back to the ship. Gave me plenty of time for dinner in the mess and a short rest before my sets.

Here is a pic of the stage I play on the ship. Imagine; every night, mind melding, acoustical jams courtesy of yours truly. That's worth the price o admission right there!!

Side note: new work out album of choice is Queens of the Stone Age "Era Vulgaris.". HEAVY.

5/19/12 day 24: Invergorden, Scotland

Escorted a tour to Dunrobin Castle today. Its about a 50 minute drive from the boat. Drove past Glen Morangie Distillery, and many pastures of sheep and cattle and hills of brown heather. The weather is brisk, but thankfully not windy. I think it said 9 degrees Celsius, but lots of blue sky and sun. Overhearing many locals talk about how warm it is today! Wearing a wool hat and scarf. Quite a change from our sunny days in Italy.

At the castle I first checked out the gardens and while there watched a demonstration on falconry. We watched and learned about hawks, falcons, and one badass
Owl. The trainer had the birds swooping over the crowd. It was cool. Then took a self guided tour through the castle, the oldest bits date back to the 14th century. It was pretty impressive. Would've snapped some shots inside but it's a no no and I like to follow the rules whenever possible. Gonna try to persuade the tour guide to drop me off at the distillery on the way home though. Have a short night of music tonight because there is a big performance by the band, dancers, and other singers called Rock The Boat. It's like a rock revue. The other singers and dancers on the ship are great. Can't wait to be an audience member for once! In the meantime, gonna sit outside the castle and try to absorb what could very well be the last direct sun we see for a while.

Passed the hometown of Donald Ross (Dornoch, Scotland) for all you golf enthusiasts and a golf course where golf has been played since the 1600s. That my friends, is old school, caddy shack style.